Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature , allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig far; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, Hamilton has ended up in the place we all desire to be: doing exactly what he loves, becoming the world's best in the process, making a great living, being surrounded by nature and family, radiating peak health and fitness, and succeeding by any definition of the word. How did he get there? And more importantly, how can the rest of us join him? Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the reader's guide. It's not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash. It's about quality over quantity, soul and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots. Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it's essential. And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same. This book is a deeply authoritative and cutting-edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, sould, and surfing. It comes directly from the source and his inner circle, which includes those at the vanguard of sports, training, nutrition, and more. Former pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece; surf legend Dave Kalama; fitness gurus Paul Chek, T.R. Goodman, and Don Wildman; and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis all contribute their knowledge. Readers will get an all-access pass into an elite world filled with definitive and provocative ideas. Laird Hamilton is known as the guiding genius of crossover board sports, and he is truly amazing in the water. His size--6'3", over 215 pounds--makes him seem indestructible. Laird is the elder son of sixties' surfing legend Bill Hamilton and is a throwback to that time when surfers prided themselves on being all-around watermen. His mother, JoAnn, gave birth to him in a "bathysphere" with reduced gravity as part of an experiment at the UC Medical Center in San Francisco. JoAnn was also a surfer and decided to move the family from California to Hawaii when Laird was just a few months old. They lived on Oahu's North Shore and later in a remote valley on Kauai, not far from one of the world's best surf breaks. He learned to surf between the ages of 2 and 3 on the front half of a surfboard; and at age 8, hi father took him to the 6-foot cliff at Waimea Falls, where Laird looked down, looked back at his dad, and jumped. "He's been bold since day one," says Bill, "and hell-bent on living life to the extreme." He lives in Hawaii and California with his wife and three daughters. PART 1 MIND We're all human, which means we all have the same opportunities and the same struggles. It's all about that voice inside our head that we call our mind--what it leads us to believe determines how we act and how our lives unfold. Which is why when I catch myself thinking bleak thoughts, I'll go out and do something physically strenuous, like clear brush or move rocks or paddle down the coast. I believe that our thoughts have real, powerful effects on us. For instance, let's say you wake up one morning in a rotten mood. You don't know why, but you're just looking for a fight. Well, in my experience, the moment you walk out your front door you're going to find someone who wants to fight you back. He'll probably be standing right there. On the other hand, if you're just thinking about enjoying yourself, you're probably not running into a lot of complications. Everything comes down to attitude: You determine what yours is, and the external world will reflect it back. Whether that's good news or bad news depends on you--on your outlook. If you think you're not able to do something, guess what? You're right. What if you believe that everything's for the best and see the beauty all around you, and you have faith that things will be good? You're right, too. If you cultivate something in your mind, you give it a life. It's really that simple. RISK AND ITS REWARDS A LITTLE ADRENALINE EVERY DAY KEEPS THE BOREDOM AWAY. When I was 10, my step father took me to Waimea Falls on Oahu. I walked to the edge of a 60-foot cliff, and when he looked away, I jumped. For whatever reason, from the start it's been in my spirit to do those kinds of things. I've always wanted to jump from the highest place, experience the greatest thrill. I may be an extreme case, but we all need to take risks. I think it goes back to our primitive state, our deepest DNA, when we were hunters and had to avoid getting eaten by large animals. Survival meant risk. The need for advent