First English translation of critically-acclaimed book opens the door to the fascinating universe of fashion. First English translation of critically-acclaimed book opens the door to the fascinating universe of fashion. This book is not just a history of fashion from the early days of the creation of dressmaking fashion to the development of ready-to-wear manufacturing and the global enterprise it is today. Its ambition is to be the story of the creation, the evolution, and the implosion of the fashion related professions. With readable, highly-informative, and entertaining text—coupled with stunning photography—this book offers valuable insights into a profession which, unlike any other social body, is determined as much by its origins as by its economic context. Didier Grumbach walks you down the runways of fashion history and unfolds the secrets of the industry with stories and accounts from those who have played an active part in its development from the 1920s to the present. And he knows what he is talking about: he was born, grew up and made his mark in the circle that he opens for us here. For decades, he has collected archives, met with witnesses, interacted with the most influential players, and opened doors which are normally kept firmly shut. In his international bestseller, he finally offers us a 20th century illustrated history of fashion like no other—a saga, a family business, with noble fathers, prodigal sons, enthusiasms, passions, hatreds, strokes of genius and, of course, failures. The heroes are Dior, Saint Laurent, Kenzo, Sonia Rykiel, Prada, Hermès, and others. Their adventures are presented in an innovative chronological—and logical—order. From haute couture to the boom in ready-to-wear, the clothing industry, creators and designers, we witness the evolution in techniques, the shifting trends in the market, how an art matures and a culture changes. We also discover how the French ventured out of Paris to meet New York, London, Tokyo and Beijing. This book is a must for fashion lovers, professionals, and students who will find a thousand references never before presented. It will also enlighten the curious reader who wishes to go behind the scenes of this most seductive of theatres. "You can't ask for a more knowledgeable and entertaining guide to the art and business of fashion than Grumbach, who has long been at the epicenter of the industry. The original edition of his definitive history has been a best-seller in Europe for two decades. The first English edition is thoroughly updated and abundantly illustrated. An extraordinarily in-depth report, it is richly layered with up-close profiles, energetic and expert analysis, and insider tales enlightening and scandalous. Grumbach covers the evolution of haute couture and the knotty regulations that have controlled every aspect of its operations while tracing the careers of such indelible designers as Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, and Nina Ricci, and onward to Issey Miyake, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, and Sonia Rykiel. He reveals shocking financial struggles and organizational battles and betrayals as outlandish and dramatic as over-the-top fashion shows. Grumbach's dissection of the ready-to-wear world is even more compelling with its cast of intense personalities, cut-throat competition, and audacious practices, including the explosion in branding and licensing. Much of this is channeled through Grumbach's own extensive experiences, beginning with his family's textile company, where he strove to create ready-to-wear that had the same quality manufacturing as haute couture. Grumbach concludes with a shrewd look at today's globalized fashion industry. Just like the best designer clothes, this exposé is both dazzling and enduring." -- Booklist, Starred Review "Grumbach, a popular and indefatigable figure on the Paris fashion scene is a living encyclopedia about French fashion's creative legacy, and its industrial history. He compiled his experiences and brushes with some of the 20th century's most important fashion figures Couture was always a particular passion for Grumbach, who could often be seen welling up at fashion shows. He championed new high-fashion entrants such as Bouchra Jarrar and Alexis Mabille, as well as stalwarts including Adeline André, viewing couture as a versatile tool, platform and observatory for business and creativity." -- Miles Socha, European Editor, Women's Wear Daily "Industry veteran Grumbach takes you through the history of fashion in this lavishly illustrated book, from its humble beginnings to today's superstar designers. As he explains, the first designers were low-ranking dressmakers, who, until the 17th century, couldn't even cross over into private industry without becoming subjects to fines and virtual witch-hunts. The dawning of recognition for these artisans came in 1675 when King Louis XIV gave master dressmakers official status. Fashion fans will be happil