This collection of narrative essays travels up and down Egypt's Red Sea coast and paints an intimate series of portraits of its places and people, past and present. In Sinai, the author joins a world-renowned freediving school as they explore the sea, while in the resort town of Port Ghalib he observes a parallel universe of tourists and locals caught in the course of mutual exploitation. In Marsa Alam he finds an anomalous settlement caught between the mountains and the sea, as well as a small team of turtle conservationists pursuing their mission against the odds. In Suez, he finds in its canal a microcosm of Egyptian modern history, while in Quseir, modern and ancient history converge into one compelling tale of a port once the centre of the world. Hurghada, the crowning essay in the series, deals with everything from corruption and authority to greed, prostitution, and sharks. Part travelogue, part conservation storytelling, each narrative is accompanied by original film photos taken on the author's six month journey along the coast.